Troubleshooting & Repairs

Before submitting a request for a repair or questions about a broken pedal, please follow the troubleshooting steps below. Following these steps is a quick process that we have developed over years of emails involving repairs and perceived malfunctions. Following these steps can save you time, money, and frustration.

For information regarding our Warranty, please refer to our Terms page. When it comes to repairing a pedal that is out of warranty, a $30 bench fee will be charged. This fee will be applied toward the cost of the repair IF the repair is performed and completed. In the event that the pedal has no issue and cannot be fixed the fee will still be rendered for our time/service. For domestic repairs, return shipping is free. For international repairs we charge $25 shipping.

Power based repair-

If you power your unit with an incorrect power supply we can fix it for you, but we have to charge you for the time and parts. Repair costs for blown circuits is $50 plus shipping costs. Before you ask- YES we can tell if you’ve blown your pedal due to incorrect power supply. If your pedal’s circuit board has been tampered with or modified, adjusted or repaired by anyone other than Pro Tone Pedals, any warranty, implied or explicit, is void.

Simple Troubleshooting
  1. Make sure your pedal has power. All of our pedals run off of 9v DC power. Guitar Input is always on the right and output is always on the left. Not having your pedal plugged in correctly, happens more often than we care to discuss.
  2. If you consider your pedal to be abnormally noisy, make sure your power supply is high quality and not overloaded- This is crucial! Refer to the “Tone Tips” article for some hints and tips on solving noise issues. Symptoms of using a low-quality or overloaded power supply can include, but are not limited to: white noise, switch pop, and hissing. In addition, “dirty power” could also affect your pedal’s performance. For more info on the importance of clean power you can also refer to this article published in December 2011 by Premier Guitar Magazine titled Powering Your Board.
  3. If your pedal seems to be cutting volume when engaged, check to make sure all cables are plugged in, are making good connection, and are not bad. A continuity tester will tell you if you are getting a connection, but will not tell you how much of your signal is making it all the way through. Solder-less cables are known for this issue. Make sure all cables are functioning properly and have strong connections.
  4. If your pedal is not powering up, make sure you have not plugged in the wrong power supply to your pedal. Power supplies that do not work well (or at all in some instances) with our pedals include, but are not limited to:1-Spot, 18v supplies, AC power supplies, laptop power supplies, or Line6 power supplies.
  5. A final step is to isolate your pedal on it’s own with a single cable coming from your guitar to the input and a single cable coming from the pedal’s output into your amp. These cables need to be tested individually to ensure they are working. Additionally your power supply must be isolated, as well. If your pedal functions when you have it isolated away from the rest of your gear, then you know its not your pedal. If the pedal is not functioning when it is isolated in the manner suggested above, then it’s probably time to fill out our Support form and send it in to get fixed up.
  6. Contact us